Anyemaqen mountains was an unexpected discovery in this trip . where was not in my initial plan since the Czekh and French cyclists told me they want to through Anyemaqen to Maqin, I began notice it . initially I just wanted to down the plateau to Xining as quick as possible .
I saw a bulk of snow covered mountains in the distance while I was riding on the G214 at Huashixie ,I recon where was Anyemaqen mountains it was magnificent and beautiful ,pretty appeals me ,its not easy to find as large snow capped peaks as this in Qinghai ,when I get to a turnoff seeing the signpost ,it showing the direction get to Anyemaqen ,I considered for a while decided to get to Anyemaqen tomorrow .I spent the night in a roadbuilder shed by the turnoff .
next day ,I hit the road towards Anyemaqen ,when I was riding in this area I thought this time should be the last time I across snow capped mountains in tibetan area this year .
sure enough the scenery was great ! Anyemaqen make me feeling not ordinary, its much higher than all the surrounding mountains . Anyemaqen was called the one of the four big holy mountains in tibetan areas ,it like the holy mountains Meili in Yunnan tibetan area .
flowers a
the road was not good mostly were the awful dirt road and sometimes with a lot of roadworks on the road,the first section was the gentle climb along the valley and I could see the Anyemaqen on the road .Its difficult to find the snow capped mountains as magnificent as Anyemaqen in Qinghai,under the mountain have trees 、bush、 grassland、 villages、 temples ,it not like the dries northern and western tibetan areas with not any trees.
just before the first pass the road petty awful the gradient very steep and the altitude very high, but the greatest views just was on this up hill road, snow capped peaks just such closer at your view .Anyemaqen showing the great views and magnificent super long glaciers . main peaks Maqingangri 6282m .huge snow covered mountain.
en route for Maqin through Anyemaqen with the four passes need to across ,grasslands、bush、 gorges、 villages、 temples were on the road . the greatest views was the up hill on the first pass.
there were some local tibetans doing a Kora walking around Anyemaqen ,who told me it need takes six days to finish it,sometimes been on the small paths in the gorge ,I thought it must be more beautiful on the paths and it could see much more other scenery not same as the carriageway .
after several days past the long mountain dirt road, over the four passes,finally I arrived at Maqin.
this great bicycle touring on Anyemaqen finished.
July 2015
青海的阿尼玛卿山是我这次单车旅行中的一个意外的发现。它一开始并没有在我这次骑行的计划里。在黄河源玛多时捷克和法国的骑友告诉我他们想骑车经过阿尼玛卿到玛沁去,我才开始注意到这个地方,一开始我并不了解阿尼玛卿,只是想尽快下高原到西宁去。
当我在花石峡214国道上骑着车的时候,我看到了远处的一大堆雪山,我想那应该就是阿尼玛卿,它雄伟美丽,非常吸引我,在青海很难找到这么大的雪山。当我到达一个岔路口时看到了道路标牌,它指示着去阿尼玛卿的方向,我考虑了一会儿,决定明天就去阿尼玛卿。我在岔路口附近的一个空的修路施工的样板房里过了一夜。第二天,我踏上了通往阿尼玛卿的路上,当我在这个地区骑行时,我想这应该是我今年最后一次穿越藏区的雪山了。果然,风景好极了!
阿玛卿让我觉得很不一般,它比周围所有的山都高。阿尼玛卿被称为藏区四大神山之ー,它在青海就像云南的神山梅里雪山在云南藏区一样的地位。阿尼藏语大概意思为先祖,玛卿的意思为黄河源头最大的山。
道路有的铺了路基,有的很差有时是沙石遍布的土路,有时候有很多地方在进行道路施工,因为青海省打算在这条路上修建高速。
第一部分路是沿着山谷缓上坡行,在路上就可以看到阿尼玛卿。山里面绿草如茵,草地上开着各种野花。
在青海不容易找到像阿尼玛卿一样冰雪覆盖很厚又很壮丽的山脉,在山里头有树木、灌木丛、草原、村庄、寺庙,它不像干燥的西北藏区没有任何树木。就在第一个山口之前,道路的坡度变得非常陡,海拔变得非常高,但最精彩的风景是在这条上山的路上,雪峰离你如此之近。阿尼玛卿展示了壮丽的景色和壮观的超长冰川。
山顶垭口
经幡石头后就是冰川
冰川
超长的冰川
主峰玛卿岗日6282米,一座巨大的雪山。
后来我去到黄河边的拉加镇又碰到那两个捷克和法国人,她们告诉我,她们在骑车往阿尼玛卿时,被经过的警察抓住了,让她们坐上警车去玛沁,因为阿尼玛卿是不向外国人开放的。在上到阿尼玛卿垭口时,警察让她们下来看一下冰川,她们绕到石头后面爬到冰川上看。她们问我有没有去爬冰川,但我一路推着车上山能看到冰川,因此没有这个想法并没有绕过石头后走到冰川上。
拉加镇(出来之后)
山边的野山羊
山脉里头的峡谷下
中间的一座山垭口
有一段关于阿尼玛卿这座山的插曲。有朋友曾经发信息问我有没有经过青海中部在巴颜喀拉附近的一座山,听他说曾经以前有外国人测得那儿有一座世界上最高的山,我听了有点意外,并不了解这件事。后来查找得知,原来上世纪二三十年代,一位美国籍的奥地利人洛克(美国地理和植物学家),后来是他把香格里拉这个名字发扬开来的人。当时他用落后的设备和业余的方法测出了阿尼玛卿的高度,以为是世界最高。二战时又有一位美国人开飞机去驼峰航线,经阿尼玛卿时,飞机仪表显示为9000米,他看到上面还有雪山,于是用传统方式测出阿尼玛卿为9041米。所以有了这件事的发生。
从玛沁那边骑车过来的人
最后一座山的垭口
在我前往玛沁的路上经过阿尼玛卿山脉,需要翻过四个垭口,在路上有草原、灌木丛、峡谷、村庄、寺庙等。最好的景色是在第一个垭口上。
有一些当地藏人在阿尼玛卿朝圣转山,他们告诉我需要花六天才能完成转山,有时要在峡谷里的小径上走,我想那一定是更美丽的路径,它和主路应该不一样小路上应该可以看到更多其它的美丽风景。经过了几天漫长的山路,翻过了四个山,我最终到达了玛沁。
玛沁
这次精彩的阿尼玛卿山单车骑行正式完结。
2015年7月的阿尼玛卿骑行记录。
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